What’s the best way to store edgings?
In order to keep the initial tension it’s best to store the edgings horizontally. They should be stacked dust-free and protected from spray and UV light, for example in a windowless room. UV light destroys the applied primer. The best temperature for storage is a constant room temperature of 17-20°C. If the QR-Codes with ordering information on the edgings are kept in the warehouse too, then storage is very clear and subsequent ordering of the edgings is even faster and easier.
Special tip: Customers can also use Ostermann as an external warehouse in order to reduce costs. With the 24-hour delivery service they can order appropriate amounts for individual projects.

How long can edgings be stored?
The manufacturer’s guarantee for plastic edgings is one year. Under ideal storage conditions ABS edgings have a significantly longer storage life. Decor edgings and edgings with less common colours are, however, best ordered in small quantities. Ostermann delivers, if necessary, small quantities from just one metre.
Special tip: Veneer edgings (eg Limba) and end grain veneer should be stored in a tightly sealed plastic bag. This prevents them from drying out and becoming brittle.

Why do newly delivered boards and edgings have to acclimatise in the winter before they can be processed?
In winter it’s more frequently the case that edgings stick badly. The reason is that boards and/or edgings are stored too cold. The glue sets too quickly through the application of adhesive on the cold surface. This leads to poor adhesion. Therefore, newly delivered boards and edgings should be stored at least 24 hours at room temperature before being processed. On delivery it can take boards on pallets up to three days until the middle boards have reached room temperature.
Special tip: It’s also possible that edgings don’t stick properly on hot days. The reason for this is often draughts through open windows. If this happens, the open time of the glue is exceeded.

Ostermann services at one glance

    Edgings from just 1m
    Edgings in every width up to 104mm
    Edgings in various thicknesses
    Edgings in ABS, melamine, 3D-acrylic, aluminium, real wood veneer
    All edgings available as laser compatible edgings in just five working days
    Edgings pre-glued with hotmelt adhesive upon request
    The largest Cross-Reference List in Europe with over 120,000 matches
    Europe’s largest edging range
    All orders placed before 4pm are delivered within 24 hours
    2% discount on every online and App order

What is the ideal temperature for the hot melt adhesive?
The theme of “adhesives” is extraordinarily complex. In the Ostermann range there is a variety of different products available for the most diverse requirements. That’s why this is the answer for only a standard EVA hot melt adhesive. The ideal temperature for this is about 190-210°C in the glue pot, preferably higher rather than too cold, since the temperature decreases right up to the application roll.
Special tip: Producers should not rely on the temperature indicator in the display but should check the temperature in the glue pot and on the application roller regularly.

What other reasons could there be for the adhesive not sticking?
When edgings don’t stick it could be that the heating unit of the machine is defective. This happens sometimes even on new machines. In this case the required temperature of the hot melt adhesive is not reached. It’s a good idea to measure the hot melt adhesive. For this you can use, for example, an infra-red thermometer, which can measure temperatures from -18 to +260°C  at the push of a button. It is important to measure not only the temperature in the glue pot but also the temperature where the glue is to be applied.
Special tip: For regular checks you can purchase a high quality IR thermometer from Ostermann.

Why should the pressure on the first roll be checked regularly?
If there is not enough pressure applied to the edging on the first roll and the joint is not closed immediately, then the edging doesn’t stick properly. The reason is that the adhesive is not fully in contact with the board. Even on the second roll the adhesive has then cooled down too much to spread sufficiently and make a strong bond between the board and edging.
Special tip: You can check the adhesive application and the roll pressure with Ostermann’s transparent test edging without primer. This test edging is available in 23 and 43mm widths and in 0.4mm thickness.
    
What should you keep in mind when processing real wood veneer?
Real wood veneer edgings have fundamentally more residual stress. Here the adhesive has to do more. Although the edgings can be glued mechanically by the usual hot melt adhesives (EVA, PUR, PO) and manually with Kantol special glue, they require more glue to be applied. All Ostermann thick veneers (1 and 2mm) have primer. Compared to veneer edgings without primer, primed edgings show much better adhesive qualities. For mechanical processing Ostermann recommends a glue application of about 200-300g/m.
Special tip: With some gluing machines the roll direction can be reversed. This results in more adhesive being applied and so to better adhesion of real wood veneer edgings.

Why are Ostermann edgings primed? What is that anyway?
Plastic edgings and thick veneers are always primed at Ostermann. The so-called primer is an adhesive agent. It ensures the best adhesion between edging and glue. You can see under UV light whether an edging is primed or not. Ostermann’s thin veneers and end grain edgings have a thin fleece on the back instead of a primer. This ensures not only better adhesion but serves also as splinter protection.
Special tip: See for yourself and compare the chip pull after removing a veneer edge with and without pre-applied primer!

How can I edge boards properly, when out of the workshop?
With mobile glueing machines – eg, the Wegoma-Set boards can be edged properly and easily on site. Alternatively, if you don’t have a machine you can use T-bar edgings from Ostermann. All ABS edgings from 2mm can be retro fitted  with a T-bar. It works like this: rout a 3.5mm wide groove in the board, apply Kantol edging glue to the T-bar, knock the T-bar into the groove, then after an hour mill the edging flush. Finished. For use on sloping surfaces and projections the T-bar can be offset to the left or right.
Special tip:  For special requirements, eg, in the kitchen, laboratory or bathroom, PUR-adhesive can be processed with mobile gluing machines. After this work stir in a half to a full  handful of blue PUR  cleaning granules in the  hot melt adhesive basin and run about half a metre of  leftover edging through it until the PUR-cleaner mixture is on the roller. Then the hardened mixture can be re-heated and removed the next day.

PUR or EVA adhesive: which is better?
In most businesses EVA hot melt adhesive is used and fulfils the requirements reliably. However, Ostermann experts recommend PUR adhesive because of its clearly better adhesive qualities (water resistance, thinner bond line, higher bond strength). Many businesses are concerned about cleaning the machine after using PUR, but the hot melt adhesive glue pot is easy to clean after cooling with the help of the blue cleaner. However, you must not forget to do this.
Special tip: It’s also possible without the cleaner. Carefully remove the PUR residue, run the leftover edging through, until there is no more adhesive on the roll and then apply EVA glue to edging again.

ABS edgings with real aluminium surfaces or solid aluminium – what is the difference?
Ostermann has various aluminium edgings in its range. ABS edgings with real aluminium surfaces are easier to process, as with other ABS edgings. In addition solid aluminium edgings are available to carpenters/cabinetmakers on rolls or in straight lengths.These are of course somewhat more challenging to process. PUR adhesive should be applied to solid aluminium edgings. Before the application heat the whole of the edging in a heat press or another heat source to about 45-50°C, so that the adhesive doesn’t bond too quickly. A very thin application of Teflon oil on both sides of the edging which has to be trimmed makes trimming considerably easier. Notice: do not get Teflon on the bonding side.
Special tip: You can also heat the tape holder  for the aluminium edging with a hot air device in order to keep the edging evenly tempered.

1 or 2mm? Which edging is better?
That depends entirely … with a 1mm edging you can have, of course, a considerably smaller radius. Then the edging is in line with the modern trend towards straight, clean lines and sleek furniture. The 2mm edging, also known as safety edging, is, as the name suggests, noticeably more stable and impact resistant. In fact even 3mm thick edgings are being used in the industrial manufacture of furniture – and for good reason.
Special tip: Ostermann experts still recommend the 2mm safety edging. The only exception is for modern sleek furniture with clean lines.

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